Beautiful Sunset on our first day in the Buttermilks.
In addition to climbing in the Buttermilks with
Sydney/Kyle/Deyo/Cassidy/Aleks/Jeremy, we spent a day exploring Dale’s Camp, a
less developed sector in the Buttermilk Country with a few hard, classic
problems. The road in was a little precarious, and though a number of the
boulders were pretty gritty Kyle in particular kept stoke high. Dale’s
highlights include stacking pads on the Element during the drive to the area
and playing on Xavier’s Roof, one of the hard classics with some crazy movement.
We also took advantage of our huge group during a day at the
Sads, which along with the Happy Boulders is a lower-elevation area with
volcanic tuff boulders. Deyo casually cleaned up her long-standing projects in
the area (as well as everywhere else during her trip - again, nice work!), and
we put together an awesome landing at Strength in Numbers, the classic highball
V5.
Aleks on Morning Dove White (V7), Happy Boulders.
Seth topping out Son of Claudius Rufus (V5).
After a few days of climbing together, Syd and Kyle
continued onto the next stage of their road trip. It was great to spend time
with them, and thanks again you guys for being such great hosts last fall! We
spent the rest of the week with Aleks/Jeremy/Deyo/Cassidy, during which Deyo proved
again that she is one of the most good-natured and positive people ever. She
woke up with pink-eye about halfway through our trip, and instead of getting
bummed or even complaining about how much it hurt (it looked like her eye must
have been pretty painful), she stayed cheerful and relatively upbeat. After a
trip to the Bishop clinic for meds, Deyo even carried pads pretty far up into
the Sads to support Cassidy as she finished her project when everyone else
stayed in town for a rest day – definitely worthy of the best-friend award!
Overall, our week with Deyo and Cassidy was super fun.
Shannon and Matt, more friends from Seattle, joined us for a
few days the following week. Both Shannon and Matt are super strong, and this
was their first trip to Bishop. We had a great time climbing with them in the
Buttermilks and dragging them to the Happys/Sads, which they’d been told to
avoid. They pulled some inspiringly quick sends of the classic problems, and we
wish you guys could have stayed longer! Aleks and Jeremy also had friends roll
through during our time in Bishop – special thanks to Andy for all the
Stumptown! Good coffee is critical J.
Andy on Norwegian (V4).
Seth’s friend Cici later drove in from LA for a weekend,
just in time for the onset of bad weather aka WINDPOCALYPSE. After getting
knocked over by pads, pushed off the rocks, and almost literally blown down
from the Buttermilks, we spend a calm half-day in town and a fun evening at the
Banff mountain film festival. When we got back to camp later than night, we
were blown away (...but actually) by the destruction. The picnic table where we
kept our cookwear was completely empty, to the point that we were afraid that
we’d been robbed. Then we slowly started recovering our things, which we found
strewn all the way across the Pit. Aleks and Jeremy’s French press, our camp
stoves (which we found ~30ft from the table), and our chairs (found all the way
across the Pit) sustained the worst damage, but everything was pretty torn up
and dusty. We put together some MacGyver fixes for the stoves, laid the French
Press and other glasswear to rest, and cleaned up in the morning, before getting
back to climbing.
Chelsea and Aleks doing their best to cook as the wind blows the fire flat.
We loved the varied and technical climbing in Bishop. We
both enjoyed the granite boulders in the Buttermilks the most, but we had a lot
of fun in the Happys and Sads, and a couple memorably awesome days at the Druid
Stones and Rock Creek. This has also been Chelsea’s most successful bouldering
trip yet, with favorite/proudest climbs including Soul Slinger (1st
official V9), Junior’s Achievement (V7/8), another lesser-traveled V8-ish in
the Checkerboard area, Rave (V7), flash of Bowling Pin Sit (V6), Seven Spanish
Angels (V6), Milk the Milks (V6), Rio’s Crack (V6), Strength in Numbers (V5),
and many repeats of China Doll, which she thinks is the best warm-up ever! Seth enjoyed measured success with Bowling Pin (V4), Son of Claudius Rufus (V5), The Fang (V4), Solarium (V4), a flash of Norwegian (V4) and was painfully close at least a dozen times to climbing Go Granny Go (V5) and Bowling Pin Sit (V6, figured out the moves then didn't have enough skin, next year).
Aleks on Soul Slinger (V9).
Seth on Bowling Pin Sit (V6).
Crossing the river at Rock Creek.
V4 on Campground Boulder, Rock Creek.
We had a great time with everyone as well, and even as the
weather gets hotter we’re bummed to leave. Luckily we have plans to climb with
Aleks and Jeremy at Joe’s Valley… Coming soon!
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